Statement of Practice

Coming from a background of Architecture & Spatial Design, my practice began as site-specific installations but I was more interested in design for stage in particular. After completing The Collective, I became confident that I still wanted to focus on set design, but it also gave me an interest in devising theatre with a design-led initiative. After completing Design for Dance, I also garnered an interest in designing interactive set for dance, since set is not common in many dance practices in particular contemporary ballet.

Fundamentally, I would describe how I feel about my current practice as a combination of the projects I worked on in Stage Two. I would like to be a set designer for theatre and dance, focusing on interactive design as installations that leads the devising process of new works. As an Arab woman, some topics I am interested in are political theatre especially in the Middle East.

 

 

DESIGN FOR DANCE 

Why did I choose this piece?

I chose to work with the Central School of Ballet, because of my experience as a ballet dancer for 13 years and my passion for classical ballet. I have never designed for dance before so I was keen to use my personal experiences & pre-existing knowledge to inform my collaboration.

Upon viewing the pieces in December, I was surprised to observe that Sam Banks was the only student who had choreographed in the classical ballet style. Also, I was glad to see that the choreography was a pas de deux. Having no experience in costuming making before, I was glad I could focus on developing my making skills on a smaller amount of costumes.

Additionally, with less costumes to make, this piece gave me the opportunity to also design/make a set. Knowing my aspiring practice was set design for stage, I really wanted to focus on the challenge of an interactive set. Considering it was classical ballet, I wanted to also explore realistic design, particularly through architecture and scenic art. This is because I had an interest in learning these skills, and also wanted to appreciate the notion of set design for classical ballet that I grew up watching.

School Visit

Initial Research

To begin my research, I used the key words Sam and I agreed on: Romance, War, and 1940s Italy. I began by making Pinterest boards. Then Sam and I selected the images we were both inspired by and I collaged them into aesthetic moodboards for the atmosphere, stage design, and costume design. 

Costume Moodboard

Stage Design Moodboard

Atmosphere Moodboard

Romantic Skirt

Observational Sketches

Early Design Ideas

After the rehearsal, Sam and I had a meeting to discuss initial design ideas. From the moodboards, I had initially created, the structure and visual impact of the arches that reoccured in my collages was really inspiring to both Sam and I. After watching the choreography from start to finish, I pointed out the conceptual and physical travelling that occurs on stage and how locations to and from travel should be defined. There is a length created in the piece, both by the passing of time in the narrative and by the spacial development of the choreography itself. We both discussed using the arch as a form of duality and symbolism that would frame the space, having it act as the force separating and then reuniting the couple. 

With Sam, I quickly drew out some design ideas with the arch in mind. Then, in my next phase of research I dove heavily into the symbolism and meaning of arches. 

Observing Arches in My Surroundings

Observing Arches in My Surroundings

Inspiration from the Antony Gormley Exhibition at the Royal Academy

Inspiration from Death of a Salesman (YoungVic) at the Piccadilly Theatre

Inspiration from the film "1917"

Research Breakthrough

Seeing the arches in the images of war damage in Nagasaki and Italy, prompted my design and scenic art focus. I felt that incorporating damage & debris in the aesthetic of the architecture in my set would help communicate the passage of time in the war, as well as the physical and emotional toll that the war placed on people. Moreoever, the visuals of the Roman Catholic architecture reminded me symbolically of marriage which would signify the strength of their romance. The choreography is really fluid, yet melancholic, so I thought it would be interesting to give a contrasting harsh texture to the visual language on stage. Therefore, I began looking at creating texture both in the structure and through light/reflection. 

Inspiration from "Brick Arch" by Wendy Taylor

Texture Created with Light & Reflction

Testing textures with found materials: mirrored card reflected on white paper

Application of Research

To grasp my research in a physical sense, I began sketch modelling with found materials and card paper. After creating structures with paper, I put in scale figures and began playing around with shadows. I was interested in shadows because the choreography had important exits and entrances of The Husband character, but I wanted to give him presence even when he was "off stage" or in the distance. I wanted to play with the non-physical connection between The Wife and The Husband that could be incorporated into their solos, so that even when each was alone on stage, the presence of the other was visible. 

Creating Presence: Visual Research of Silhouettes & Shadows

Sketch Modelling Structure

Sketch Modelling Structure

Sketch Modelling Structure & Lighting Ideas

Initial Design Drawings

3rd Meeting with Choreographer

After discussing with Sam, we both agreed on the imagery of the shadows emerging through the arch in my first round of sketch modelling. Sam mentioned that he liked how the non-tangible presence of the shadow still had a dynamic visual which overall created a powerful visual effect in relation to the physicality of the arch. We wanted this visual effect to be a climactic point in the choreography, which meant a few changes.

Initially, as can be seen in the video of the first rehearsal above, when The Husband returns, the couple kind of circle each other. However, in order to create the elongated shadow through the arch, this would require a straight movement forward towards the arch. Additionally, it would require a lot of length so I suggested we use the diagonal of the stage rather than a horizontal line to optimise this. So, Sam re-blocked his choreography. 

Sam and I also discussed the idea of two realities and two worlds on stage. As The Husband gets deployed, we questioned how to show that he was in a different location at war. Sam and I both liked the texture that was created by the fabric in my earlier research, so I began to play with it. 

Sketch Modelling with Fabric

Sketch Modelling with Fabric & Shadow

Sketch Modelling with Fabric & Shadow

Inspiration from Dejà Vu by Pia Männikkö

4th Meeting with Choreographer: Interactive Set

I was really concerned with the interactive set because the choreography was complete and I felt that I didn't have much room to suggest drastic changes. I saw an opportunity in using The Husband's exit as an appropriate moment. Since in the first half of the choreography depicts the time before his departure/travel, it did not make sense to have the alternate war world visible on stage. Sam and I both felt it would be more visually and narratively poetic if there was a transformation of the space during the piece. 

I suggested, that in relation to the structure, The Husband would pull a concealed length of fabric that would get hoisted above him as he exits. Using the diagonal of the stage would allow the space for this in the upstage left, while The Wife is dancing her solo in the downstage right.

We decided that the transformation had to occur at this moment also because it suited the piece conceptually. The fabric creates a surreal dream-like atmosphere. While the reality of the world is established with the solidity of the arch, the fabric has a juxtaposed physicality and aura. Therefore, the point of view of this piece is The Wife's. During her melancholic solo, The Husband becomes a figment of her imagination. The surreal dream world transforming the stage, is her romanticising The Husband at war. 

We also wondered how we could make The Husband's return seem even more angelic and dream-like. I looked at lighting the arch itself to create a silhouette as he walks back through it. This would require concealing birdies or some sort of LED strips inside the arch. 

 

Inspiration from Tunnel 228 by Punchdrunk

Circle Skirt Inspiration from Ballet Central's "Requiem for a Rose"

Circle Skirts in Period Ballet Costumes: "Swanilda Variation" from Coppelia

Hotspots for Movement in Costumes

Costume Concerns

  1. Due to budget primarily, I could not afford to buy a WW2 replica uniform or even vintage 1940s garments that I could decorate to look like a uniform. Another issue was that they would likely not be appropriate to dance in. The shirt would need gussets because of the lifting, and the trousers would have to be high-waisted and a looser fit. This was nearly impossible to find in a military uniform within a low budget, and tweaking non-dance wear would have required way too much time. So, I decided to put The Husband in a more civilian-looking outfit with the color-scheme of a military uniform.
  2. After realising that all my research was based on Italian fashion, I was concerned with the fact that this wasn't appropriate for the cast. One pair were both Japanese, and the other was a Japanese girl and an English/Italian boy. I was worried that by putting them in western-influenced costume then I would be ignoring their Japanese identity, considering Japan had a major part in WW2 history. On the other end, I also didn't want to force a foreign interpretation of the Japanese culture and history onto the piece while neither me nor my choreographer knew enough about it. The question of ethnic appearance and design influence was a big grey area, making us question whether or not the setting (Japan, Italy, or anywhere) was actually integral to the piece. We decided it was not. This piece was not meant to be historically accurate, but rather an allusion to the 2nd World War to show an extreme side of the concept. I looked at Japanese fashion in the 1940s, and saw that there were some similarities. We kept the exact location of the piece vague, in order to allow the emotions of the piece to shine through rather than the political/historical context. 

1940s Japanese Fashion

Combining Elements of Womenswear

Color Palette Experimentation with Found Fabric Scraps

Sketch Modelling on Sketch Up for Production Meeting 1

Costume Development

After production meeting 1, I had a 1:1 chat with Verity about my costumes. She suggested that I focus more on sourcing costumes which I could alter and adorn due to my lack of confidence and making skills. However, this was a cost issue because my female dancers were both different heights, waist, hip, and bust sizes so it would likely require purchasing two costumes. I could not afford this because I also needed a large chunk of budget for my set build. So, Verity suggested that due to their size differences it would be wiser to do a separate skirt & leotard. Also, the dancers need a leotard for coverage underneath the skirt anyway, so this would solve that issue. I really did want to challenge myself to actually make something for the first time because I wanted to learn new skills. I spoke to Bonnie and Rosie about making a circle skirt, which they reassured me was simpler than it looked. To accommodate both dancers' sizes my plan was to buy two leotards. Moreover I wanted to budget wisely and sustainably so I relied on found fabric. I came across a beautiful coral crepe in the costume studio scrap boxes that already matched my color scheme. Sam was a big fan of the purple, so I decided to buy purple leotards after I experimented pairing the color scheme together with other found fabrics. 

Testing Color Combinations to Match Coral Crepe for the Skirt

Successful Attempt: Crepe Skirt with Polycotton Underlayer

Failed Embroidery Test: Floral - too intricate/time consuming ; thread was too thin so would definitely not show on stage

Semi-succesful Embroidery Test: more organic shapes were easier to do, thicker thread was more visible (but still not sure if it will show on stage)

Military Uniform (unstyled) to see color cohesion with female costume.

Set Development

The next step for my design process was technical drawings. I began by translating my sketch modelled forms into plans and elevations. Initially, I wanted to give the arch more of an abstract structure with multiple sides so that there could be a side that was the naturalistic world of The Wife and the other side that was more damaged and surreal with the fabric that would link to the fantasy of The Husband at war. 

After working out a series of technical drawings, I had a long conversation with Michael Ste Croix about structural stability and building materials. From my sketch models, he pointed out that if the model was not standing by itself, then the full scale structure would most definitely not be stable either. The quickest solution for time's sake and cost, I simplified my design to just a free standing arch because the architecture works. We then chatted about materials for several reasons: 

  1. cost efficiency
  2. structural stability
  3. weight; light enough to move on/off stage.

For example, we discussed foam blocks, however these would likely be too light to withstand the tension caused by pulling the fabric up on the fly bars. So, Michael advised me to speak to the Woodwork technicians where they helped me figure out how to efficiently create my cut sheets and how to assemble as quickly, cheaply, and lightly as possible. 

First Draft 3D Scale Drawing

Second Draft Technical Drawings

Questioning Material: foam blocks vs wood/efficient cut sheets

Figuring out how to maximise use of wood from only 2 sheets (2240x1220): cutting out facade & using off cuts to line sides of the arch

5th Meeting with Choreographer

Prior to production meeting 2, Sam and I had a long discussion and debate about the visual image on stage. We both felt that there was going to be a disconnect between the costumes that had developed into a very naturalistic allusion to the war-time period, however based on my sketch models the set was seemingly more of an abstraction. While I was keen on the abstracted set design, especially because of the surreal fabric being the interactive & transformative element, Sam felt much more drawn to the naturalistic homage of the costumes. We were quite conflicted in this moment, but I got scared of push too hard for the abstraction because I knew how strong his vision was from the get go. I compromised. 

Since the structure of the arch had already been simplified to no longer having two facades we could play with, we decided it might make more sense visually to have a naturalistic arch and the fabric was surreal enough. We could amp up the surrealism with a drastic lighting change for that part of the stage instead. I also was excited to do some scenic painting which I haven't done much of before, so I saw this as a learning opportunity to expand my experience in set-making. 

1:25 Scale Model

Costume Drawings

Set Build

Firstly, I wanted to get the set build done as fast as possible because I was more confident in the process than costume making. Most importantly, I needed to get it done and functioning in time for lighting workshop one to test the fabric pull with the dancers, rehearse the timing, and rig it. So then, if there were any issues I would have time to fix them early enough before tech rehearsals. 

The plywood available at CSM was way over my budget, so I resorted to using 12mm MDF because it takes to paint quite well and is much cheaper. However, it is more fragile than plywood so Syd recommended I put plywood bases to stop the edges fraying over the duration of the project. Additionally, I could not afford the flexiply from CSM so I used 3mm plywood that the Platform technicians gave me. Overall, the assembly of my arch relied heavily on found wood. All the timber used in the supports as well as the 12mm plywood bases were found in the 3D workshop scraps. I used foam to create bricks which was also scavenged, apart from having to buy a few sheets when I ran out. Fundamentally, the build was cost effective and sustainable. 

The first step was to cut and assemble the structure in 3D large. Then, paint it in the Platform workshop, and finally attach the fabric roll. This was overall a process of trial and error, especially with the practicality of the fabric roll. Initially I wanted to design a winding system so that it could roll out and quickly be rolled back up for the set strike/scene transition. However, I did not have the expertise or time to spend designing a system so Michael Breakey advised me to treat it like a toilet roll essentially. After speaking to Ruth and Syd, they told me that it would be totally fine and even faster to have someone unrig then bunch the fabric instead of wind it back up anyway. 

Cut Sheet Created on Fusion360 for the CNC Machine: cut 2 sheets for both sides of the arch.

Supports for attaching the sides: 25 x 18 timber & MDF mini braces

Theatre Braces: concealed with foam attached to thin wooden boards using PVA to create debris/broken stone/fallen bricks

Reference Images for Painting

Using Leftover Paints from Platform Workshop to be Cost Efficient

Fabric Roll

The fabric was the most important part of the set, because it was the interactive element. I bought a two-tone organza similar to my found sample because it reflected light very well. I went for an olive green with a grey reflect because it had a touch of military reference but also gave across a nature/ethereal vibe that contrasted the arch quite strongly. 

In my technical drawings, I had estimated needing 5 meters in length across the stage, however I had not taken into consideration extra length I'd need for it to be raised higher up nor the fact that when I treated it that it would shrink. I bought 12 meters. I lost about 2 meters when I crinkled it with the heat gun, leaving me with 10 meters. 

The fabric was 1.5 meters wide which I wanted to gradually double in width so that the shape would come out of the arch as a triangle canopy based on my technical drawings. This was no longer feasible because there was very limited space in the back of the arch because of all the supports. This left me with only a 1.7 meter capacity, and when the fabric was crinkled with the heat gun, the texture made it more bulky when rolled up. So instead, I decided to fold over the fabric to leave me with 5 meters as originally planned. Lastly, I had to flamebar the fabric, which was a new thing I learned in set-making and theatre safety. 

Organza Before Heat Gun Treatment

Assembling: Creating a hook to hold the fabric roll inside the arch

Functioning Fabric Roll

Measurements & Planning Circle Skirt

Female Costume Before Adjustments

Leotard Adjustments

To create the new neckline, I cut off the turtle neck along the marks from the fittings. I then had to zigzag stitch a panel of lycra lining to the cut edge so that the leotard's lycra would not fray. For the back I did a similar process, but added a panel of nude power-mesh to add more support for the dancers and to prevent drooping. 

The original leotards were more similar to a commercial bodysuit, rather than a dance wear leotard. They had snaps in the crotch to fasten, but I had to cut these out to take in the loose material that was too big on the girls. I zigzag stitched the adjusted crotch with some interfacing to add extra re-enforcement since the kicks and extensions in the choreography put a lot of pressure on this point in the costumes. 

After a second attempt at fittings, I realised that the girls could no longer get into the leotards since the fastening in the crotch had been removed. I did not want to risk them stretching the neckline and power mesh to get into the costumes, because the leotard's lycra was already fragile due to me cutting it. So, Rosie helped me make new snap fastenings in the shoulder strap. After another fitting, the power mesh panel was slightly too large and rippled on their back. I had to take it in so that it laid flush on the girls back and acted as an illusion. 

Taken-in & Reinforced Crotch

Shoulder Fastening

Powermesh Illusion Open Back

Eggplant Purple Leotard (left) Compared to Polycotton Purple (right)

Swing Catch Hand Stitch

Skirt Issue: Twisting on the waist while dancing, so I sewed in buttons on the leotard to keep the skirt in place

Heatpress Color Samples

Costume Styling

Finally, Sam and I debated styling the costumes. Ultimately, the decisions came down to what was more comfortable for the dancers then the aesthetic was adjusted to suit that. 

Military Uniform: In my early pictures of the Italian military uniform, I noticed that the men did not wear ties unlike British uniforms for example, so my design did not include a tie. Initially, Sam and I styled the uniform with a few undone shirt buttons and an open jacket for a more casual unkempt look suggestive of the fact that the couple were in a more intimate setting. However, the dancers were uncomfortable with the open jacket because it kept flapping about bothering them during lifts and jumps. When we tested closing the jacket without a tie in the workshops, it looked odd. In later fittings we tested a brown tie from the Costume Store, which was patterned and did not look good. So, I found a wool/fabric brown belt and used that as a make-shift tie instead of a real tie. It looked off with the jacket opened, so we decided to do up the jacket instead. Effectively, it made The Husband character seem like a higher ranking officer, rather than a soldier which actually levelled up nicer with The Wife's look. 

Scarf Accessory: In my original designs, I gravitated towards styling the female costume with a neck scarf. I felt that this gave another nod to the period and was also very romantic. My first attempt was a chiffon scarf, because I had leftover chiffon that I didn't end up using for the underskirt. This was a nude color, so on stage it looked washed out. I had also made the scarf too big so the tails of the knot hung so low that they covered the heatpress detail on the neckline and flapped about when the dancers twirled in the workshops. Sam wanted to scrap the scarf entirely, however I truly believed it made the costume come together visually. Therefore, I remade it smaller out of a found silk scrap which is a more appropriate material for such an accessory anyway. I ended up hand-dying it so it matched the skirt and Sam was convinced with the outcome. 

Costume Styling Errors: Long Scarf & No Tie

Costume in Motion: Testing partner work comfort & flexibility (especially for military uniform with the jacket done up)

Shadow Lighting

Failed Lighting Using Fabric

Experimenting with Haze Levels

Lighting Workshop 2

In the second workshop we focused on the other lighting states which were: the opening duet, the female solo, and the ending duet. 

  1. For the opening I wanted a train station setting created with long diagonal beams of light (similar to early 20th century images of Grand Central Station in New York) however this required more specials that the shared rig could not accommodate so we resorted to a wash. I wanted a cool colored, cold early morning atmosphere to create a melancholic feeling for their farewell. This was too dim, so we added some slightly warm top-lighting with LEDs as well as a few head side lights to catch their faces. 
  2. For the female solo, I wanted to maintain that lighting state but add more emphasis to the choreography rather than the general atmosphere. We achieved this by adding heads, mids, and shins side lighting. The stage left was unlit to conceal the pull & rigging of the fabric to then add a transformative surprise when we suddenly cut to the male solo. 
  3. Lastly, we experimented with the lighting for the ending. I wanted a major contrast to the opening lighting wash. However, creating a very warm "golden-hour" sunlight was way too warm and looked very sepia-tones. We adjusted it by adding more white-lighting rather than bright yellow/orange. 

Experimenting for Opening Lighting

Experimenting for Ending Lighting

Lighting Workshop 3

After agreeing with Sam on the lighting states, workshop 3 was mainly figuring out queue times. 

Additionally, we tested out the fabric pull after I had extended the fabric. There were a couple issues: 

  1. I wanted the transformation to be concealed in darkness to make it a surprise. However, as Paola pointed out, it was too noisy so it distracted far too much from the female solo.
  2. I had extended the fabric without adjusting the height of the pulley so the canopy swooped way too low for the boys to dance underneath it. 

Lastly, we pinpointed issues with a few lighting states and transitions to make them smoother. For example, the fade from the female solo to the male solo was too long, so the start of the male solo wasn't lit. Also for the male solo, we blurred the gobo so that it was less harsh and we expanded it's radius since the dancers kept stepping out due to it being such a limited space in my design (which was on purpose to make it seem more claustrophobic and restricted to add the "at war" aspect). 

Original Queues from Workshop 3 with incorrect timing

Tech & Dress Rehearsals

The tech rehearsal was vital because it was very important to perfect the fabric pull and for both casts to practice enough. The boys felt very confident, however in the workshops the attempts kept having issues so I was terrified. We solved the issues in these ways: 

  1. The pulley was put on a higher beam on the ladder. This was successful. 
  2. We added a very very subtle lighting to stage left so that you could get peaks of the transformation. This was much more powerful visually because the interactive element of the design that was a climactic point on stage and conceptually was now visible. 
  3. Sam changed the boys' exit. Instead of walking quickly offstage, they walked slowly as part of the scene/choreography during the female's solo. This helped add to the conceptual aspect that The Wife was imagining him. Also, it helped make the pull slightly quieter and thus less distracting. 

We also practiced transitions. Since the entrances and exits had to be part of the choreography, Sam choreographed a little acting sequence for the dancers to set the tone of the farewell. The dancers were having a hard time figuring out when to enter after the set change, so we added a blue light to queue them, which they could see from the wings and know exactly when the set was in place. 

We were also finally able to test the costumes onstage. I did not want to put them in full costume for the run throughs during the workshops to avoid damaging them from constant use. Especially for the boys, the uniforms were wool, so I did not want them sweating too much. We tested them briefly on stage (as can be seen above in the costume-making section), but the tech rehearsal was the first time seeing it come together. 

Entrance Queue

Dress Rehearsal Photos: close up of set

Dress Rehearsal Photos: close up of set

Dress Rehearsal Photos: Costume Close Up

Dress Rehearsal Photos: Skirt Movement

1st Meeting with Choreographer

The video to the left was the first time the choreographers presented the pieces. After watching them, we did a round of speed-dating with each choreographer. Considering the piece was already more than halfway done, I wanted to take the opportunity to understand Sam's vision first before thrusting my interpretations on it. 

I learned that he was exploring romance from the point of view of separation. While separation and romance is a universally recognised narrative trope, we mutually decided it needed to be exaggerated on stage somehow to be dynamic.  Sam revealed that he was interested in a period piece to give the husband/wife narrative choreography a context and world. He was also determined to push the narrative context to an extreme in order to exaggerate the couple's separation. Thus to communicate this efficiently, we both agreed on setting it in World War II in order to have a meta-narrative that the audience could link to and use an exaggerated context of separation. The Husband was being sent off to war, leaving The Wife behind agonising over his return. While I only saw 3 minutes of the piece, Sam did confirm the plan for the remaining choreography which was in narrative sections. 

Duet (where they get separated) ; The Wife's Solo ; The Husband's Solo ; Duet (where they get reunited)

This choice came about also because both Sam and I are really drawn to the 1940s fashion which could give a strong visual aesthetic for costuming. Sam also noted that he was interested in Italy, particularly the fashion, so I ran with that in the research phase. 

Pinterest: Costume

Pinterest: Stage Design

Pinterest: Atmosphere

2nd Meeting with Choreographer

After the Christmas holidays, I visited CSB to watch Sam's rehearsal and meet the double cast. Sam had finished his choreography over the holidays and was now teaching it to the dancers, so I got to watch the solos and ending duet. This was critical to my design process because now I could propose design ideas that linked with the narrative structure and use of the space (in terms of duet vs solo spacing and travelling). 

Knowing that the costuming would be 1940s period, getting the dancers acclimated to longer skirts was necessary. I wanted to look at calf-length skirts. First, we tried the romantic skirts that the dancers had and I sketched out how it flows in certain dance positions and how it affected partner work and lifts. However, these skirts were too puffy and floaty compared to the 1940s style, so they changed into character skirts. This was much more appropriate, so I decided to use observations of the circle skirt and heavier fabric as the basis of my costume design. Additionally, I told the boys to rehearse in their black jazz shoes because they would be much more aesthetically appropriate for a military uniform or 1940s menswear look than their ballet flats. I told them this from the get go so they would have plenty of time to rehearse, get comfortable, and voice concerns that would inform the costume design. 

Circle Skirts & 2nd Half of Choreography

Observational Sketches

Visualising Energy & Dynamic Flow from Duet to Solo to Duet

Contemporary Arch Structures & CreatingTunnels

Arches in Italian Architecture (Roman Catholic)

Creating 2 Worlds: Sketched idea informed by the Antony Gormley exhibition

Distorting Boundaries & Thresholds: Sketched Idea informed by design of Death of a Salesman

Arches in World War 2: Damaged Roman Catholic Churches in Italy & Nagasaki

Observing Textures in my Surroundings and Antony Gormley's Work

Testing textures with found materials: crinkled organza shadow on white paper

Sketch Modelling Structure

Sketch Modelling Structure & Lighting Ideas

Sketch Modelling Structure & Lighting Ideas

Initial Design Drawings

Sketch Modelling with Fabric

Lighting From Within the Arch Idea

Initial Costume Ideas

In my initial costume research, I was inspired by 1940s Milan Fashion. I looked at female fashion as well as Italian and other European military uniforms. Certain images directly drew both Sam's and my attention. However, I did not want to mimic an existing dress that I saw in photos. So, I picked out specific details from the images I saw and combined them. 

The second step to my initial research was regarding the movement of the costume. While watching rehearsals, I observed the movement of the character skirts, which are full circle skirts. In The Wife's Solo, she has a lot of twirls. In the partner work, she has a lot of leg extensions. Meanwhile, The Husband has a lot of lifting in the partner work so he needs a lot of comfort in the arms and legs.  

 

 

Observing Skirt Motion in Duet

Observing Skirt Motion in Solo

The Wife: Color Palette & Full Circle Skirt Inspiration

The Husband: Military Uniform Inspiration

Civilian Men's Fashion

First Draft Costume Drawings

Production Meeting 1

At production meeting 1, I presented my mood boards, sketch model photographs, and my costume drawings. Additionally, I met with Sam the day before to make sure we were on the same page and I sketched out a storyboard which included lighting proposals. I presented my design idea of an imposing arch centre stage with the fabric that gets pulled out during the piece and forms a canopy that creates a textured shadow.

The meeting went very smoothly, in my opinion. I got very useful critical feedback: 

  1. Verity supported my initial costume choices especially regarding civilian-wear for the male costume as it would be much cheaper to source than a military uniform. She suggested some vintage shops that sold military-esque items as well as period garments, but did warn me that alternations to make them dance-appropriate would be tedious. 
  2. Syd flagged my idea of using birdies to light the arch from within. He said that the lights would have to be plugged into a source, not wireless, and thus would be practically unfeasible because I wanted to set my arch centre stage. This would mean a cable stretching across the dancer's space and would be a hassle when moving the set piece on and off stage. So, I scrapped this idea. 
  3. Micheal Ste Croix told me that my proposal of having my arch piece trucked would not work aesthetically, and it would be better to deal with the construction of my arch minding that it would likely be man-handled on stage. 
  4. Ruth & Luke both told me to figure out precisely the measurements and plans since I was proposing using the fly-bars. 
  5. Leanne mentioned that CSB had done a WW2 production a few years back and they still had the military uniform costumes. So, this solved my cost and aesthetic issue as she told me I could loan them for free. She sent me the images of the costumes and I picked them up a few days later in my dancers sizes. Access to these costumes was a savior because they were already made to dance in. 

 

Storyboard for Production Meeting 1

CSB Costume Samples from Leanne

Female Costume Experimentation

I made a mini model of my costume on the half scale figures in the costume studio. In this process, I looked styling and embellishing the costume. I wanted to have a multi-layered skirt to highlight the movement of the fabric in twirls and leg extensions in the choreography. My initial idea was to use chiffon under the crepe, but Verity warned me that the heaviness and static from the crepe would weigh down the chiffon. I tested this out with a heavier chiffon in hopes it would be weighed down less because I wanted to do multiple layers so that the chiffon wouldn't be too sheer from a distance on stage. I also tested this out with polycotton because it would not have static. I preferred the polycotton because it did not require multiple layers to contrast the crepe, thus needing to buy less fabric. 

Failed Attempt: Crepe Skirt with Chiffon Underlayer - didn't work because chiffon clung due to static and did not flow

Reference Images for 1940s Embroidery & Embellishments

Half-Scale Costume Model Styling: circle skirt for movement, boat-neck leotard for the period reference, scarf for more of a period flare, found buttons to add sparkle embellishment, embroidery is not visible.

First Draft Technical Drawings

Discussion with 3D Large Technicians: 2x12mm MDF for facade with 2"x2" timber supports to attach flexiply side panels (only on left interior, right exterior, and top), with theatre braces for support to prevent front heaviness, backless to fit fabric roll

1:25 Technical Drawings

3D Scale Drawing

Production Meeting 2

For production meeting 2, Sam and I had finally agreed on the aesthetic of the piece. I made a 1:25 scale model which I presented in the Platform Theatre model box. I also made an updated storyboard both drawn by hand and digitally using the photos of my model in the model box. Additionally, I made technical drawings of the design within the theatre. Finally, I also showed my mini costume model and submitted updated costume drawings to Verity. 

The production team approved our proposals, with no major set backs. Our feedback was: 

  1. Sam mentioned his choreography had gone over to 7 minutes. This was an issue, and he had to cut 2 minutes off his piece. This was a concern to us both because the evolution of the set and lighting was all timed to the progression of the choreography which was split up into time frames: 
    • Opening Duet: 3 minutes 
    • Female Solo: 30 seconds
    • Male Solo: 30 seconds
    • Finale Duet: 3 minutes

We had no choice but to cut the piece, so the easiest and quickest solution was to shave 2 minutes off the finale duet. Risking that it felt that their cathartic reunion was cut short. The briefness of the reunion added another element to our narrative: while his time at war is being imagined by The Wife, is the Husband's return also a wishful figment of her imagination cut short by the grim reality of wartime?

Paola pointed out that my sketch models were on white paper, so the shadow effect I achieved with the crinkled fabric would not show up on the black dance floor in the theatre. She suggested I perforate the fabric to let light shine through to help achieve the canopy effect instead of just crinkles. She also noted that most of my lighting proposals would require specials, so I had to rethink how I could create washes using the shared rig instead. 

Photoshopped Storyboard

Lighting Storyboard

Technical Drawing Pack (3 pages, please scroll through)

Making in 3D Large

It Stands!! We transported it from 3D large to the Platform on dollies which was smooth & quick so we kept that system for the set transition

Painting Tests on Wood & Foam Scraps: testing paint layering with texture gels, dry brushing, brush stippling, different shades & colors

Painting the Arch: foam bricks & directly on wood to try to create depth as if it was chipped/old bricks

Using the Heat Gun to Perforate and Crinkle the Organza, which worked because it was plastic-based.

Functionality Issues & Quick Fixes

Costume Making

This was the more time-consuming part of the process, even though I only had one costume to make. However, because my dancers were varying sizes, I still had to do two versions of the same costume. After discussing with Bonnie and Verity, I decided on making one skirt with two fastenings (custom fit to each girl's waist) and then having two separate leotards for each girl, which also meant they wouldn't have to share one sweaty leotard. 

First, I drafted a circle skirt using the slightly larger dancer's measurements. Then, in the fittings I marked both their waist points on the skirt to add two fastenings and adjusted the length to a point that would be appropriate for both girl's heights (this meant that it was slightly longer on the shorter dancer, but this did not affect her ability to dance in it) For the leotards, I could not find a boat-neck leotard in the purple color that I wanted. I could not find them within my price range in white either, so dyeing the leotards was not an option. My solution was to buy two cheap purple leotards that were turtleneck, and then re-modelling the neckline and back. This was marked out on each girl in fittings. The leotards were also too big in the crotch, so I had to take them in. 

Drafted Costumes Before Fitting

Fittings: both boys costumes fit perfectly; the girls with their newly marked necklines

Reinforcing neckline with lycra panel

Completing the Circle Skirt

The circle skirt needed a lot of work. I needed it to be ready by at least the 2nd or 3rd lighting workshop in order to test the colors and movement of the underskirt. The construction of the underskirt came with a few challenges. 

Firstly, I had to unpick the waistband on my draft skirt so that I could attach the underskirt and resew the waistband over both layers. The waistband was really challenging for me in the first place because I didn't really know how to use a sewing machine, but getting to do it a second time meant more practice on my newly learned sewing skills. Secondly, I wanted cohesion in the costume, so I designed the underskirt as purple just like the leotards. Polycotton is cheap and comes in many colors so I wasn't worried about this. I went to several shops on Goldhawk Road however I could not find a color match to the eggplant purple. All the shops I went to had a more blue-toned purple, but it was my only option. Thirdly, I was unsure about the movement of the polycotton compared to the crepe that I had observed in the character skirts in rehearsal. I wanted it to be it's own layer in the skirt to enhance the fabric movement created by the choreography rather than just lining the coral crepe with it. But when testing the polycotton's movement it didn't fly up as much when twirling as the crepe did. To combat this, Rosie advised me to do a swing catch stitch at several points on the edge of the two skirts so that they essentially remained separate but ensured the same level of movement. 

Movement of Polycotton Circle Skirt

Placket with Two Fastenings for Each Dancer's Waist Size

Embellishing the Costumes

The final step was to add the finishing details. 

Since the embroidery was not visible in my early experiments, I spoke to Bonnie about recommendations. She told me that heat-pressing onto lycra has a bold enough effect for stage and is a quick, cheap, and easy technique. I have never heat pressed before so I was excited. I managed to get free one-flex samples that had a strong stretch for lycra. I could not find a coral color to match the skirt, so I tested a pink and a shimmery rose-gold. I ended up working with the rose-gold because it was more opulent compared to the pink which was quite childish for my costumes in my opinion. Also, the reflect and sheen made it more visible from a distance.  I cut out a pattern based on my embroidery references. I had to simplify the shape because small details would not show.

Heatpress Detail

Military Uniform Styled With & Without Ties

Initially Styled Costumes vs Final Styled Costumes

Costume in Motion: Seeing if the purple underskirt is visible

Lighting Workshop 1

During the first workshop, we mainly focused on rigging and my special lighting states. 

  1. We could not rig the fabric to the fly bars because it would have blocked the light for the shadow. Instead, Luke and I devised a pulley system using the ladder in the upstage left corner so that the fabric would pass under the light. Additionally, this would greatly help with the queue/timing for flying the fabric up. Since the fabric would go up during The Wife's Solo, that was only a 40 second time frame. This way, it was more efficient because the fly queue would be when the dancer handed a stagehand the fabric. The stagehand would then attach it to the pulley system with a caribiner and manually pull it. This also made striking much easier because they would just tug the fabric down and unhook it rather than having to add in another queue for the fly floor. 
  2. The shadow: this was fairly easy to achieve. After adjusting the rigging of the fabric, it worked right off the bat. We tested light levels to get the intensity strong enough. Even though I wasn't using the birdies in the set anymore, the lighting for the shadow backlit the dancer as he walked towards the arch which still achieved the emerging silhouette effect but only from the front of the arch for the audience sitting in the stage right seating bank. 
  3. As Paola had warned me, the effect from my sketch models was not achieved on the black dance floor. Anyway, my fabric was too narrow to achieve it. Instead, we cheated it with a gobo on the movers. We were able to adjust the area of this space which was quite small for the dancer, so Sam had to reblock it. We also tested the colors. First a brown similar to the uniform color, which was way too warm, and then a green to match the fabric which was beautiful and ethereal. 

Rigging: the fabric was way too short when doubled over, but the pulley system works.

Testing Gobo Colors

Specials: solo&shadow; space was limited so we added side-lighting when the dancer kept slightly stepping out of the gobo light. This was also re-blocked. More lighting was added on the arch as well.

Discussing with Paola the lighting of the arch itself in the opening.

Adding Side-lighting to the Female Solo

Walkthrough of Experimentation

First (Failed) Attempt at Fabric Pull

Adjusted Queue Sheet

Successful Fabric Transformation in Rehearsal

Dress Rehearsal Photos: Set & Lighting

Dress Rehearsal Photos: Set & Lighting

Dress Rehearsal Photos: Costumes

Self Assessment

Overall I had an enjoyable, hectic, informative, and totally unique experience in Design for Dance that has shaped my learning and my personal practice in many more ways than one. While I rate the experience as a whole quite highly, in hindsight there are many aspects that I feel pensive on and realise did not go as successfully as I had anticipated. 

I think that in my design process, what fell short in the final outcome was that I did not push for enough of my perspective as I should have. From the get-go, I let my choreographer's vision of the piece guide my research and design development rather than view his choreography and give it my own language. While I can say the collaboration was a success because we had no clashes or arguments, I think I let myself compromise a bit too much to avoid conflicts. This is not in my usual nature as a performance maker who has typically worked with productions that are being designed and devised at the same time. This was my first time working with a piece of performance that was completed before designing it, which intimidated me. I wanted to do Sam's vision justice, and in turn I shied away from enforcing my vision on to the mix. This can be seen in the departure from my abstracted sketch models for a more naturalistic "traditional" type of set design. If I got a chance to re-design this choreography, I would run with the abstract installation style design, make sure to let my voice be heard and be more persuasive since the images of my sketch models spoke for their own potential as realised designs. Below I have experimented with other ways I would have designed my set in particular. 

Despite that decision that I feel changed the course of my designs and collaboration, I feel like there are a lot of highlights in my process that I consider I did well in. For example, my research was quite thorough especially when I delved into examining the arch as a structure. Furthermore, I believe using sketch modelling as a form of research experimentation was successful because some aspects of my design, such as the fabric, would not have been discovered without my experimentation with found materials. 

Secondly, I would like to examine practical skills. I completely surprised myself especially regarding technical competence. I was very insecure with my costume-making skills but I am proud of the fact that I took Design for Dance as a learning opportunity to push myself in learning these skills. In the past, I have always stayed as far away as possible from making costumes because of fear. I was able to get much more comfortable with using the sewing machine and the overlockers for example, and managed to complete my costumes to an unprecedented degree. I do recognise that there are definitely a lot of flaws and that I relied heavily on the costume tutors' guidance, but I demonstrated a lot of different techniques that I applied to perfecting my costumes such as making 1 skirt for a double cast, completely remodelling 2 leotards, and small details such as the swing-catch stitch on the skirts, hand-dying the scarf, and heat press. I definitely took advantage of all the resources I had available at CSM to expand my  previously non-existent knowledge in costume making. 

On the other hand, while I was more confident in my set-making skills, this proved to be an unexpected challenge. One of the downsides of changing to a naturalistic set was that I had very little experience in scenic art. The time-crunch was hectic with design for dance so I took on this task without the proper practice and experimentation. I dedicated much more time to costume-making since that was my week point but ended up rushing my scenic painting. While it looked fine on stage, I feel that I should have taken more time to learn the proper techniques. For example, I should have consulted experienced tutors like Peter Bond before beginning the making process. Secondly, it was the first time I ever constructed a set entirely by myself and I am proud of the carpentry skills I demonstrated. However, my set was VERY HEAVY which during the get-out I realised was due to over-building. The structure was very stable, but I learned that in theatre not everything has to be built to last an eternity, so I could have probably simplified the construction slightly. 

Another skill I did really well in is professional skills. For example, I managed to only spend 108 pounds total thanks to using a lot found materials. Not only does this show good budgeting skills, but I also tried to incorporate sustainability into my process. Additionally, my professional skills can be seen in my technical drawings which were an asset for my communication skills in production meetings, to technicians in the Platform and 3D Large/Woodwork. 

Lastly, I would like to discuss my response to diverse contemporary contexts/audiences. A major factor in my design process which was overlooked was the fact that our research was from a very European perspective but majority of my cast was Japanese. While on couple were both Japanese and the other couple was Japanese and Italian/English. When focusing on a historical/political event it is inevitable that the ethnic appearance of the cast adds a layer to the visual language. Sam and I mutually decided to keep the geographical setting vague, to avoid the over-complications of the political context. Moreover, there was a moral dilemma over the fact that why can't a person of a certain ethnicity be cast in a different visual setting. While my influences were mainly European, this did not affect the Japanese dancers' ability to communicate the story beautifully on stage. Even another issue was that each couple was a different ethnic make-up so choosing to set the piece in Japan for example would have created a different language on stage for the mixed-race couple. If the piece wasn't double cast, I would have loved to dive more into the political context as it is a part of my conceptual interests in my practice. 

Speculative Adaption of My D4D Design

Re-imagined Set Using Reflective Foil To Create Fragmented Texture Across The Stage